Erg what a day, running around dealing with bloody mechanics whose own cars breakdown, mending ball joints and replacing tyres. All part of the fun. Rice & Beans was an ok place, bit noisy, bit leaky, but I’m sitting in a yurt - a wigwam, basically - at Ignacio Springs just up the road, run by Gary and Terry from Canada. And it’s quite blissful. The weather is a bit moody, and it’s bloody freezing, literally hypothermia-inducing cold, in the desert at night, so my enthusiasm for getting mules down into the canyon to look at caves, going on hefty treks, and camping out, has been slightly, erm, dampened.